Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well (Lorenzo Da Ponte Italian Library)
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First published in 1891, Pellegrino Artusi's La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangier bene has come to be recognized as the most significant Italian cookbook of modern times. It was reprinted thirteen times and had sold more than 52,000 copies in the years before Artusi's death in 1910, with the number of recipes growing from 475 to 790. And while this figure has not changed, the book has consistently remained in print.
Although Artusi was himself of the upper classes and it was doubtful he had ever touched a kitchen utensil or lit a fire under a pot, he wrote the book not for professional chefs, as was the nineteenth-century custom, but for middle-class family cooks: housewives and their domestic helpers. His tone is that of a friendly advisor - humorous and nonchalant. He indulges in witty anecdotes about many of the recipes, describing his experiences and the historical relevance of particular dishes.
Artusi's masterpiece is not merely a popular cookbook; it is a landmark work in Italian culture. This English edition (first published by Marsilio Publishers in 1997) features a delightful introduction by Luigi Ballerini that traces the fascinating history of the book and explains its importance in the context of Italian history and politics. The illustrations are by the noted Italian artist Giuliano Della Casa.
salt and pepper. Brown the meat on both sides, add another bit of butter if necessary, and then add chicken gizzards, livers, sweetbreads, and fresh mushrooms or reconstituted dried mushrooms, all chopped. When everything has browned, moisten with broth and cook over a slow fire. Bind the sauce with a little flour, and lastly add half a glass, or even less, of good white wine that you have boiled in a separate pan until reduced by half. Boil a little longer until the wine is absorbed in the
leaves and black or purple florets. Remove the toughest leaves and blanch the broccoli. Strain and plunge into ice-cold water. After you have squeezed it well, chop coarsely and toss in a pan with virgin lard, seasoning with salt and pepper. When the broccoli has absorbed all the fat, sprinkle with sweet white wine and continue to stir until all the wine has been absorbed and has evaporated; then serve, and it will be praised. Here is another way to cook broccoli which turns out better
patate I (Potato Pie I), 319 Tortino di patate II (Potato Pie II), 319 Tortino di petonciani (Eggplant Casserole), 297 Tortino di pomodori (Tomato Pie), 196 Tortino di zucchini (Zucchini Pie), 319 Totani in gratella (Grilled Flying Squid), 344 Triglie alia livornese (Red Mullet Livorno Style), 336 Triglie alia viareggina (Red Mullet Viareggio Style), 337 Triglie col prosciutto (Red Mullet with Prosciutto), 334 Triglie di scoglio in gratella (Grilled Rock Mullet), 335
I) I guarantee that this dish is genuine and well tested, as it is based on a recipe I obtained from a family in Santa Maria Capua Vetere. I must also tell you that for a long time I hesitated about trying out this recipe, not being entirely won over by the hodgepodge of spices and flavors. To tell the truth, the dish did not turn out at all badly; indeed, it may appeal to those whose taste buds are not categorically in favor of simplicity. Take a piece of beef flank and lard it with
formerly unimaginable perspective, and new practices are enacted that no longer depend on the spice trade (effectively blocked by the Turkish occupation of the Eastern basin of the Mediterranean). With Martino, the use of garden herbs and the filling of ravioli with minced meats ceases to be an oddity and becomes the hallmark of modern Italian cuisine. Other gastronomes further developed Martino’s legacy: Cristoforo Messisbugo’s Libro novo nel qual s’insegna a far d’ogni sorte di vivanda (A new